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oh hey Chris how is the co enough to be a little man I don’t know something snapped off and it’s just hurting yikes sorry about that hey you know some dogs sort of look like their owners what the Pacemakers share the same traits as their cases that’s ridiculous no it kind of works right I mean because like the peer-based 600 is cool right and you’re arguably cool right the case is super quiet and you’ve always been on the soft-spoken side yeah think it’s totally true actually there’s one more thing we have in common what’s that well after the colonoscopy I think I also support a 360 millimeter radiator that like include push-pull or the pure bass 604 be quiet offers a tempered glass side panel sound damping material and a highly versatile design chips with a pair of powerful peer wings two fans and intentional support for 360 radiators click the link in the description for more info what’s cracking people welcome back to the channel hope you’re all doing well today we are building a full-blown system from the ground up the objective of this build is going to be so that theoretically those of you who might be building the system of your own at home can assemble it almost in real time as you watch me build mine and so this is really just to help those of you who are maybe new to PC building if it’s your first time or if you just need a refresher on how to assemble this stuff so hopefully that’s that that makes sense and it’s going to be a link for your video because of that it’s just more of a casual and relaxed environment to teach users or new users how to build a PC I will say that even if you’re not building a Rison system so I’m building an AMD Rison PC even if you’re building an intel-based computer you can still apply 95% of what I’m going to be doing today to your system it doesn’t really know the only real differences are the CPU installation which is a breeze on either platform and CPU cooler installation which in itself can vary greatly even on the same platform depending on which manufacturer of cool you’re going with so that being said ladies gentlemen what is what am I just building this computer just for you guys of course not this is actually going to be my cousin’s gaming PC that I helped him assemble or that I helped him pick out the parts for I actually did a video you can go ahead and check that out where I sort of make a parts list and that parts list looks drastically different from the hardware you see before me because I went back to the drawing board several times and was like no that doesn’t make sense that’s stupid so I’ve swapped it out from it was originally going to be an Intel system and now it’s AMD Rison what do you know it just seemed to make more sense with his budget and stuff for those of you curious the build we’re looking at today is around $1,200 MSRP you know give or take 100 bucks or so depending on the prices how they fluctuate all the time and stuff but let’s go ahead and go over the parts shall we one-by-one I’m going to do it really quick because we’ve got a lot of building to do right afterwards so first off our CPU of the hour is the risin 5 1600 it’s a 6 core 12 thread part boosts up to 3.6 gigahertz I am going to try to push that a bit further with a manual overclock for Brandon he’s not into overclocking it’s not too familiar with it so I’m going to try to get the squeeze the most performance out of it as I can with the help of this cooler now this was originally the the cooler that Brandon bought and paid for is this one right here the cryo rig h7 a really great price performance cooler however I forgot to tell Brandon to also pick up or order an am 4 bracket to go along with it because it doesn’t come with one so it’s not supported with Rison natively out of the box so it’s going to take probably a few weeks for that bracket to get here so in the meantime we’re using this nock to a n II know n H u 12s and tastic cooler Brandon can decide if he wants to keep this one or swap it out for the h7 once the bracket arrives and that sort of thing so that’s that takes care of that we’ve also got a be 350 tomahawk motherboard from MSI this is a fantastic little budget board I believe that this is one of the ones that has the PL x chip so it supports crossfire and all that jazz it’s really nice sort of a black and red color scheme actually the red is very subtle on the vrm heat sinks probably shouldn’t clash with anything else in the rig but a fantastic little board here that is going to be paired with the gtx 1070 Super clock edition from good ol EVGA this is still I think one of the more affordable 1070 s that you can find on the market however it’s a blazing fast card and it’s certainly going to kick ass and raid some frames for today’s system then kids almost forgot about that down there it’s a 1800s I’m sorry the 16 gigabyte kit where’d you get that 18 you good bite kit from 16 gig kit of g.skill ripjaws 5 ddr4 at 3000 megahertz I am also going to try to overclock that to 3200 as that does help Rison in gaming performance some hopefully the be 350 tomahawk here is able to handle that our storage configuration consists of two drives the first of which being a 250 gig WD blue that’s actually an SSD not a mechanical hard drive like you might have thought at first yeah WD makes makes friggin SSDs now and they actually called them the same name as their mechanical drives which is super confusing but nonetheless this should be a pretty sweet SSD I’ve never used it before personally or tested it so hopefully it’s a it works and it’s fast enough and we’ve got a one terabyte WD black mechanical hard drive for his for all the games and stuff obviously the heavy storage needs media that sort of thing I should mention that we are installing Windows 10 64 bit on that SSD as well we’ve got the C Sonic G Series 650 watt power supply this is a modular unit and 80 plus gold certified yo so incredibly power efficient and it’s also going to say it’s a CCLC sonic see sonic is a great power supply brand they are very reputable so hopefully this one will handle this this particular system just fine and then finally our case of the hour is the envy XPS 340 elite in white I gave Brandon a couple options he really wanted a white case so I gave him this one along with like three or four other popular white cases and this is the one he came out with was like this is the one this one right here and I completely agree I love this case myself I’ve built a couple systems in it already it’s got a beautiful tempered glass side panels got radiator support at the front in case he wants to upgrade the cooling solution later down the line and it’s just a really nice chassis for not too much money and then finally just to give ourselves a little bit of an aesthetic bump for the rig I have included some fantex white sleeve extension cables to make things look nice and pretty oh there’s one more thing as a thank you to Brandon for letting me build his rig and film it on the channel I am throwing in free of charge and NZXT hue plus RGB LED unit which is probably the biggest baddest most awesome RGB accessory you can add to a system here in 2017 so that’s going to definitely spice things up and add some bling definitely gonna give us a bling factor for today’s bill but those are all the parts ladies gentlemen so I’m done rambling I’m going to go ahead and start building so if you guys those of you who are building your own systems at home right now what I’m going to suggest is that you grab your cpu aka your desktop processor and your main board or your motherboard because that’s generally where I like to start in any given build so let’s let’s start there all right you all so you can see that I’ve taken the CPU somewhat out of its packaging you want to make sure not to touch it unless you absolutely have to so it’s still sort of in a little box for now but I’ve also removed the motherboard from its anti-static sleeve and you’ll notice there’s a bunch of other stuff on this table I’m going to go over everything but when you take your motherboard out of its box you want to also take out a few important accessories along with it so that they’re just on hand when you’re ready for them the first of which is your motherboard IO shield and we’re going to see what this exactly is for in just a bit as well as your SATA cables I would take out a number of SATA cables equivalent to the number of two and a half inch or three and a half inch drives that you’ll be connecting to your system so in our instance we’ve got two drives one SSD and one mechanical hard drive so I’ve actually pulled out all four of the cables since they come connected but you can take those out as well and then your your motherboard manual so this is the tomahawk manual you might need to consult it at some point and then the other stuff on here these are just sort of like tools that I use when building a computer the only one you absolutely need well let me get the CPU out of here it’s not a tool really so we’ve got our the one you really need is a screwdriver you’d a Phillips head screwdriver this is a number two phillips head screwdriver any sort of length will do but i generally prefer a slightly longer one Putin just makes a little bit easy when screwing in screws and stuff but magnetic tip also helps a lot not not required but definitely appreciated makes things a bit easier and then we’ve also got some cable management accessories here so zip ties generally there’s at least one one or two components your build that will come with zip ties but they’re usually very few of them and they’re not like the right length or they’re too cheap and stuff like that so I have my own on hand again this is not necessary just kind of creates a cleaner build for the cable management part and then I’ve got some velcro ties in case I need them and then of course some wire cutters to cut the zip ties and stuff pair of scissors also works just as fine don’t use a knife that could be dangerous so those are the things that we are going to be using for this build and on that note we can actually install our CPU all right so here’s a close-up look at our CPU socket and this is basically where the CPU gets physically mounted or inserted on the motherboard and this one in particular is the am for socket AM for is only compatible with AMD rising CPUs at least at the time of filming so don’t try don’t bother putting in a in a non rising AMD chip or an Intel chip god forbid bad things will happen if you do so just stick to rising for a m4 and you’ll be good to go so if you are building it Intel rig right now I would suggest going to some sort of tutorial maybe I’ll link one I’ll put a card somewhere if I can find a good tutorial on how to do that on the Intel platform but for Ziff sockets for Rison it’s really quite simple all you do is lift up this bar here there’s a little little bar that’s got a little latch got to push it to the side a little bit and then lift it up like so and then get your cpu out I will remind you guys not to leave any fingerprints on your cpu particularly on the top you don’t want to touch this top heat spreader here that’s that’s a no-no you want to grab it from the sides so here here’s the cpu alright you can grab the edges edges are fine also do not touch the golden contacts the golden pins I should say on the bottom alright that’s a no-no as well that’s very important you want to keep that as clean as possible the way you want to do this now is you want to take note of the golden triangle there’s a golden triangle on one of the corners of the CPU and you want to match that with the small tiny ass triangle in the corner of the socket you can see there’s a tiny little corner or a little ya little arrow right in the corner there that’s going to match up with the gold arrow on your cpu so the way you want to do this is grab it with one hand one finger on each side I use my thumb and my index and you just go straight down into the socket you’ll notice that the pins you have pins on the bottom and you have pin holes in the socket so obviously you’re going to be slutting all those pins into all those holes and it should just drop down it should feel snug it should feel like it’s it’s in there and you can give it a little label to make sure that it’s fully down looks good and then you take the lever and you just push it back to where it was there will be a little bit of pressure don’t let it scare you though and once it locks once the lever locks back into place voila you’ve just installed a CPU now some CPUs including the one that we’re using today come included with a stock cooler and this one in particular comes with the AMD rate aspire which is a fantastic stock cooler but we’re using something a little bit better we’re using that not to a cooler that I mentioned earlier at the beginning of the video so we actually don’t need these mounting bars these mounting bars on either side of the socket those are for the for the stock cooler but we don’t need those I want to make way for the not to a cooler bracket so we’re going to actually remove these by unscrewing each of the screws there’s two screws on either side and upon removing them the mounting bracket should pop off just like that do the same thing for the other side so we are going to want to keep the a.m. for backplate in place because that’s how we’re going to mount our third party air cooler here and this is where things get a little tricky because there’s no standard method for instance calling CPU coolers it all sort of differs based on the manufacturer this knock to a cooler installation will be vastly different than an NZXT cooler versus a Thermaltake cooler versus fantex cooler Corsair cooler and so forth so this is really the only part in the build where I’m gonna have to leave you guys on your own I promise so at this point I want you to consult the manual that came with your air cooler or liquid cooler and follow it to Atif all the instructions there and and you should be good to go make sure that you’re also following the instructions in that menu will that pertain to your particular socket so again we’re running a m4 right here if you’re using LGA 1155 with Intel or LGA 2011 then you want to make sure that you’re reading the right instructions for that socket but before I let you go and and opt off to your own installation with the cooler I will teach you how to apply thermal paste and it’s fairly simple thermal paste is basically a thermal interface material that basically is a heat conductor between the heat spreader of the CPU and the base plate of your cooler it basically allows for heat transfer between your CPU and the cooler so that you get better absorption better dissipation and superior thermals if you don’t use thermal paste you’re going to have a bad day you always always always want to use a proper application a thermal paste so what you want to do I have a little plunger here yours probably looks a little similar I like to do the grain of rice method so straight in the middle it’s just how it sounds you want a grain of rice size of thermal paste you can go a little bit bigger I would say grain of rice works for LGA 1151 for example and similar because it’s a smaller chip and you don’t really need that much rice and slightly bigger of a heat spreader so we’re going to we’re going to do the green pea method the green pea method is slightly bigger than the grain of rice bada bing but a boom beautiful alright and ideally the theory here is that once you push this thing down which yes smack it down on the CPU it’s just going to spread it across the entire heat spreader and so you’ll actually get much fuller coverage than what it looks like right now so on that note why don’t you go ahead and install your CPU cooler wall I install mine and we’ll we’ll meet back afterwards sound good alright go for it good luck I believe you all right moving on to the memory so installing the memory is one of the easier parts about building a PC but there are a couple things to be aware of the first of which is that you have these four dimm slots at least on this motherboard there are four dimm slots that you would actually populate and they can actually be covered or blocked if you have too big of an air CPU cooler now this one is it’s fairly slim so we’re not running into any clearance issues but you might have one that’s too large and kind of encroaching on these leftmost CPU I’m sorry DIMM slots and that could be an issue hopefully if you if yours is only encroach because there’s a fan on the side you should be able to pop the fan off and it’ll give you more open access to those dim slots and you can go ahead and stall your memory modules but if you are just running into some issues and there’s no way around it it’s possible that you’ve just got some incompatible Ram that is just too tall the heat spreaders on the RAM which is the the black enclosure that you see here for example is just too tall for the model of CPU cooler that you’ve purchased you might want to look into that online do some research to make sure that it is incompatible before you like some things back and stuff but that can occur from time to time assuming though that you don’t have any clearance issues and that you have a free free access to all these dim slots you want to consult your motherboard manual to to find out which of these slots should be populated with your modules because it does matter it does matter no matter if you have one stick or four sticks or eight sticks you want to make sure that you’re putting them in the right slots the only really wait the only way to find that out is through the manual so once you’ve done that I’ve already found out that mine my two sticks that I have here should be going in the second and the fourth slot so I’ve got that all figured out the next thing I want to do to actually install these suckers is I want to pull down these side latches there’s side latches on in this instance there’s side latches on both sides of each dim slot some other boards some other boards only have a fold down latch on one side and the other one is fixed so that applies to you don’t don’t try to force one of the sides down it’s probably just not meant to move but in this case both of them fold down on either side now before you install these suckers you want to make note of the little notch that’s the bottom of the mall you can see it right there it’s off-center which means that these are keyed PCBs which means they can only go in a certain way so you want to match that notch up with the notch that’s in the dim slot itself just to ensure that you’re plugging it in the right way otherwise you could damage the module so once you’ve got that figured out go ahead and line it up and applying equal pressure on both sides of the stick you want to apply force downward until both of those side latches that you pop down earlier snap back into place so we just did the first one let’s do it again for this guy even pressure downward and voila you can see that the latches all for the latches are completely up right where they were before so memory installation complete very straightforward and simple let’s move on to the next step all right we’ve got our case now so go ahead and get your case out of the box be careful with it especially if you you’ve got something like a tempered glass side panel it can be very fragile and what we need to do is sort of prep our case so that we can fit our now prepped motherboard snugly inside of it so I’m going to go ahead and take off this side panel now if you guys have a more conventional side panel that’s not tempered glass you probably have you probably don’t have these four thumb screws directly on the side you probably have two thumb screws on the back or something similar depending on the case so go ahead and remove the side panel carefully be especially careful I mean whether or not you have tempered glass you should still be careful if you’ve got it you can have like an acrylic side panel window or something like that because they can scratch very easily I would advise leaving the plastic wrap on the side panel window until you’re absolutely done 100% complete with the build I know it’s tempting I know it’s tempting to peel it off the second you see in guru ah but trust me they’ll thank me later it’s not worth it now I’m also going to remove the backside panel and you guys should too just in case you find any accessories back there a lot of times case vendors like to put the accessories inside of the case they like to hide them either in the drive ke you’re in the power supply shroud somewhere so go ahead and take your accessories out you will be needing them very soon in fact right now let’s go ahead and put the case on its side so that the the main side is facing up and the back side is facing down boom and here’s where you want to bust out your motherboard IO shield that I told you to remove from your motherboard box earlier take it out of the plastic wrapping like so it’s like an ASMR video now and you want to make sure that you line this up properly generally the shiny side if there’s a shiny side is going to face inside inward of your case and they’re really nice outside or the really nice part is going to be outside obviously because you can see it and the way this goes so you already know it’s going to go either this way or this way right with the shiny side inside now it’s just a matter of which way is that go you can just line it up with your motherboard or I can just tell you a rule of thumb where you see the little circles a little audio circles that’s going to go on the bottom towards the bottom of the case that’s pretty much the best way to tell and then just go ahead and pop it in and this can be a little tricky it’s hard to know once you pop this in and it’s sort of yet you have to kind of do it by feel and by sound so you hear that that that was part of it popping in and you want to just double check you have to look really closely to make sure that the entire perimeter of your i/o shield is flush so you just want to double-check push it firmly around the edges make sure it’s all good in there all right now before you get too excited and go about installing your motherboard there’s a couple things to mention here first of which if you are using an air CPU cooler tower sort of thing like like I am right here then this doesn’t really apply to you but for those of you using liquid cooled a IOT’s of any kind that have radiators and things like that you want to make a note of whether or not it makes sense to install your motherboard first before you install your radiator it can kind of depend to the most part I would say the rule of thumb is you install your motherboard first and then your radiator but there are some instances where the reverse is true and makes more sense for that particular configuration so you just want to sort of think it through not sure maybe just look up in certain manuals to see what they suggest or if it’s not there look online but that is something to point out the other important thing to note before you install your motherboard is that you have your motherboard standoffs installed now NZXT has already done us the solid of pre installing these and these are these little metal pegs that are sticking out of the motherboard tray that give your motherboard a little bit of lift it kind of prevents the the trace layouts on the back of your motherboard making contact with the steel surface of the case itself to prevent any sort of shortages and things like that so it’s very important that you have these in place again NZXT is already put in here and if you’re lucky you’ll actually get one in the middle a peg in the middle that’s good a little bits got it a little bit of a tit on it a little bit of a lift off it’s a little bit taller than the other ones it looks a little different than the other guys and that’s just so that you can have something to latch on to there’s a you know obviously a hole in the middle of your motherboard that will latch on to that middle peg when you’re putting it into place and just sort of lock it and freeze it so that it’s easier to work with and more stable it’s not moving around and stuff it’s really nice to have one of those but if you don’t no worries you can still get by now the other thing to be aware of is that not all standoffs should be in the same place for every situation for example these are in the ATX configuration for ATX motherboards which I in fact have right now so that’s good so I don’t need to change anything here but let’s say you were building for some reason with a micro ATX motherboard and you needed to rearrange the standoffs to accommodate that particular form factor you can either look in your case manual or if it’s not there it could be etched directly onto the motherboard tray where here it says you know micro ATX ATX IPX and it gives you sort of a legend and you can figure out where the standoffs go for that particular form-factor board now that we can go ahead and mount our motherboard now that that’s all out of the way and I like to grab the motherboard by either side I really try my best not to grab it by the CPU cooler that’s a bad habit of mine I know I need to stop and then I just sort of just push it in there just gently I like to look at the back of the motherboard or behind the truth of the case so I can align the i/o the rear i/o with the i/o shield and then if all goes well the middle peg the lifted peg will latch on and voila the motherboards not installed yet don’t put the case up right it’ll just probably fall out and something will break we still need to screw it down so we’ve got some screws here you’re going to want to get the accessories out that came with your case with your chassis and then with your hopefully metallic tip screwdriver this is where the batalla tip really comes in handy you’re just going to go ahead and screw those down I should mention when you’re installing the standoffs the standoffs underneath you want to make sure to tighten them but you don’t want to over tighten them because they can strip and then they’ll just like do the infinite spin and that’s not good because then these screws won’t really go in at all and then likewise when you’re screwing in these screws you want to make them snug but not too snug again because you could strip them and if you tighten if you over tighten them then removing them when you remove them you might actually pull out a standoff or the standoff might come along with it and that can be a pain sometimes too to work around that so you can expect with a standard ATX motherboard that you’ll have to do you have to input about eight or nine of these screws we only have to do eight because the middle standoff is is a raised one but if yours is not raised and it looks like all the other ones then you will have to put a ninth screw right there and voila now we can say our motherboard is properly installed we can put the case up if we wanted to which we’re going to actually need to do now to install the power supply alright so I’ve got my power supply here and sure enough it is partially modular which means you have some of the essentials that are just wired hardwired into the power supply and the accessories or the peripheral cables if you will are separate so you could plug these in as you as you see fit depending on what devices you want connected which is really nice helps clean up cable management a bit because you’re only connecting the cables that you need instead of everything and trying to find a place for the ones that you aren’t using so I’ve kind of already figured out which ones I need the ones that are connected are the standards essentials that most people will be using anyway which is your 24 pin ATX this goes to your motherboard directly as does the 810 EPS this is the CPU connector and then we’ve also got one four PCI Express this is for your video card we’ve actually got two eight pin connectors these are six plus two pin design you can see that they kind of split off and this is going to be plenty for our video cards so we don’t need to add additional PCIe cables to this guide what we do need are our peripheral cables so we need some SATA cables here both for our two drives we do have an SSD and a mechanical hard drive that our SATA they use SATA connectors so we’re going to need to power them with this SATA plug you can see that there’s actually one two three four SATA connectors on this one cable so hopefully if we wire things properly and this cable is long enough we’ll be able to wire both of those hard drives with one cable two birds with one stone so to speak and then we’ve got one more of those this is another state of cable exactly the same estate ax say the power that is actually a little bit shorter and there’s only two connectors on this one and this is going to be going to our NZXT hue plus you may have other SATA enabled devices that that need to be powered such as let’s say a built in fan controller into your case or there’s molex as well Molech is a completely different plug that did come included we do have some molex cables included with this power supply but we don’t have any molex devices that are in the system so we don’t need to use those the other thing is with the matter of which way do you want to install the power supply I generally say face down especially with cases now having ventilation slots at the bottom with dust filters as this one does if it doesn’t if your case does not have any sort of ventilation at the bottom here where the power supply mount is then I would say flip it up top otherwise I would I would go to the bottom now this is a bit of a unique layout actually there’s there’s plenty of cases that do this but the s340 elite actually has this bracket on the back with removable thumb screws which you still for some reason need a screwdriver to remove that’s silly and this is what you want to attach to the power supply first before you install it there I would say most cases do not use this method most cases you just slop the power supply in that’s the wrong way you just put the power supply in and then you would just directly screw in four screws into the existing holes but this is a little bit different and ext is getting all clever with it so I’m going to get my power supply screws that came included with the case I think you might also get some screws that come with your power supply but more often than not they’re going to come with your case so we’re just going to mount this guy on here all righty okay now that before we install the power supply I’m going to connect all the cables of that need right now because it’s a lot easier that way to connect them outside of the case than it is to try to Penang GLE them inside once the power supply is already installed first say it’s a cable and you want to make sure that you’re plugging it in it’s all labeled so it says PCIe it’s for graphics cards the CPU obviously and then peripheral ide flash SATA which is what we want that’s the one we want right there so you can just pop that sucker in and do the same thing for our other one boom okie dokie so then now what I like to do is sort of group the cables together and push them through the backside of the power supply mounting area and just slot it in like that and screw or down now some cases will have you mount the power supply from behind the motherboard tray this way I’ll just have you slotted in from this side as opposed to behind the case but every case is a little bit different so again check yo motherboard or your your case manual for details all right oh it’s good for now we’re going to leave the power supply cables as is for now we’re going to move on to something else let’s do the front panel connectors oh how exciting so here’s a look behind your motherboard tray and for starters you can see our power supply that we literally just installed with all the cables coming from it but then you’ve got this whole other mess of cables that seems to be stemming from the front of your case apart from these two these are these are fan cables we’ll talk about that later and these are your front panel connectors coming from the front everything that’s at the front of your case including the power button reset button power and hard drive LEDs USB ports audio jacks etc that all needs to get wired to your motherboard one way or another and that’s that’s what these cables are for so each one represents a different thing got your USB 3.0 which is the big blue one USB 2.0 which is labeled and the these really tiny ones these really tiny ones and make up your your hard drive and power LEDs your reset button power button etc and then you’ve got special things that’s pertain to only some cases like your your HDMI port here if you’re into VR and an HD audio for your 3.5 millimeter headphone and microphone jacks so yeah we’ve got these to plug in we’re gonna have to flip the case around so that we can start wiring these guys correctly to their appropriate headers all right so we’re on the other side of the case now you can see I’ve already routed all of my front panel connectors through the various cutouts in the case now I did this strategically I didn’t just pick any old cutout and stick a cable through I actually routed each cable through the cutout closest to its appropriate header which is why the HD audio connector or the HD audio plug is right next to the HD audio connector on the motherboard the USB 3.0 connector is right next to the USB 3 header on the motherboard and so forth so that makes it really easy for plug in and chugging plugging things in I’m just going to go ahead and start with the USB 3.0 now the USB 3.0 in fact all of these except for the really tiny cables really tiny connectors are keyed so you want to make sure that you’re plugging it in them in the right way or you’re going to have a bad a break some pins I have broken many a USB 3.0 pin before so I am a little nervous right now there we go USB three is secured moving on to little guys move on the little guys a little guys we’ve got power power LED and hard drive LED the one that’s the common one that’s missing here that the s340 elite does not have is the reset button but that’s okay we’re going to find we’re going to locate it on the motherboard it’s right here for this particular board you’re gonna have to look it up in your motherboard manual each board is different as to where these little guys go actually sometimes it’s printed oftentimes will be printed somewhere on the motherboard telling you where the pins go and in this case we do we do see that power switch is plus and minus that way if you’re not sure which way is plus or minus on the switches I believe it’s the you’ll see a little arrow indicating indicating plus the positive side with the no arrow is the ground and then we’ve got the hard drive hard drive led which is right there on the bottom underneath could be pain there we go alright little bastards are all plugged in you can move on to our USB 2.0 which is right next door this is also keyed as I mentioned and if one of these pins snaps off on any of these headers you’re pretty screwed also by the way for the USB 3.0 I should have mentioned this earlier I’m sorry if your motherboard has two of those ports it looks like you could plug it in either or see how this one also has the USB 3 port down there they are effectively identical so it really doesn’t matter which one you plug it into just whichever one is more convenient or what-have-you and then this is the HD audio thar she blows bar she blows front panel connectors are installed ladies and gentleman let’s go ahead and do the fans next to start with the little wires first and then we can work our way up to the Big Kahuna’s like our 24 pin ATX and PCIe after we install the video card stuff so fans alright fans actually we don’t even have to cut right here you’ll notice that there are no fans at the front of the case which is kind of odd and that’s by design because ng XE is expecting the user to install an a io at the front of the case which comes already with a with fans so since it since we’re not using an area we’re using a air cooler not a liquid cooler we are going to install two additional fans for my cousin so I’ve got actually two NZXT fans these are from my other NZXT case these are 120 millimeters they’re exactly identical as the existing fans in the case so we’re going to install them at the front as intakes and to do that we first have to pop off the front panel of this case look you just pull it like that not every case will have the front panel pop off so easily some of them have latches that need to be undone and so forth so let’s just install these guys let’s there’s a little cable a little cable cut out here you guys even see what I’m doing yeah you can wear my fan screws that direct airflow now going straight to the CPU cooler and soon-to-be the video card which we’re going to pop right there and now we shall route all of the fan cables to the various fan headers on the motherboard we should first locate where those headers are there’s one here there’s one here and we got two up here and then the fifth one is actually being populated already by the CPU cooler here this fan so you want to approach wiring your fans the exact same way as you wired your front panel connectors route them through the the cutout that makes the most sense nearest to the header you wish to plug them into generally if if you’re dealing with a decent case there will be a cutout at the very top a couple cutouts if you’re lucky which is perfect for these top mounted fan headers because they just kind of stay out of sight out of mind and this bottom one here I think I’m going to connect the back fan because it seems the closest sorry I know you guys can’t see anything because my FAQ thing you’re doing the way it’s really no other way to do this though okie dokie fans are plugged in next up we are installing our hard drive from premier and this is a three and a half inch drive of course we are going to install it in the only three and a half inch drive cage in this case and every every case is a little bit different where the mounting points exactly are go ahead and consult your case manual for those specifications and then once you know what you’re doing you can just pop in the drive or you know there’s there’s different mounting solutions some of them have little like wing brackets that fold out the sides other ones you just screw them in like this heck yeah go on old school you’ll notice that there are three threads on either side of a three and a half inch mechanical drive for the most part you’re going to want to screw all those down don’t skimp don’t think like oh I only need to put two in no but that’s the run in because there are moving parts in the hard drive yo those moving parts like a like a needle and a platter and a little little little green man there’s a little green man in every hard drive no there’s really not and if your hard drives not mounted properly and securely in your case then all those moving part can end up making lots of vibration and noise which is quite unsettling make sure you do your job screw em all in now this is the unfortunate design I should have thought to plug their screw this in earlier there’s only one screw hole here on the side the case only gives you one screw hole so I’m screwing it in with my hand which is not good I’m going to get a smaller screwdriver I have a little screwdriver head here that’s really the only thing that I could fit inside of this tight space whew is just a tip whew and should get it tight enough though hidden all right there’s our hard drive look at him look cute he’s all secured and mounted and stuff hey what is this but it’s what it is right here this looks awfully familiar this almost looks like that one SATA cable that we had plugged into our power supply from earlier oh my lord it is and it is also it’s the same l-shape my goodness so you want to line that up and just push it in just nice and easy oh yeah right there that that is firm that is real firm say the power has been connected but wait there’s more you need data so let’s let’s get a data cable remember the other accessory that I told you to get out from your motherboard box way back at the beginning of the video yeah it’s time it’s time to whip one of those out if you know what I mean so we’re going to get one of these now these are these have two different connectors or two different ends you can get flat you get flat on both sides or you can get one flat and one right angle it just depends on what the manufacturer has given you usually they give you two of each and generally if you if you’re using the right angle I like to save that for the drive itself as long as it makes sense to do so so that looks pretty good and then the other end just goes into one of the SATA ports that’s on your motherboard let’s cut to a b-roll shot of that now a couple quick things to note about the SATA data cable before we move on first of which is that you will hear inaudible click once you’ve inserted it far enough into the port letting you know that you’ve established a to your connection you can even tug on it it won’t budge unless you push down on the metal latch only then will it release the other thing is how do you know which of these ports to plug into them and they all look the same but if you consult your motherboard manual it will tell you which of these ports are wired to the native chipset on board this one being V 350 and which ports are wired or controlled by a third-party add-on controller add-on controller is good to have but if it’s it shouldn’t be your first choice you should always opt for the native chipset on your motherboard in this case all four of these ports are natively controlled by B 350 so it doesn’t really matter which ones we go with but if you were to connect to let’s say an SSD in particular it doesn’t really matter for hard drives too much but I’d still recommend native chipset anyway if for sure an SSD you want to be sure that it’s plugged into ports controlled by the native chipset otherwise you could incur a bit of a slowdown in certain situations so just to be safe native chipset check the motherboard manual good ok you know what while we’re here why don’t we just stick in another one so she said for our SS day that we’re about to install yo sounds pretty good to me alright I don’t like the way that looks I’m going to do it flat like the other one it will be creeping up behind him alright there we go beautiful ok now we got to install our SSD alright so as I’ve been saying throughout this video every case is a little bit different and that means you don’t know I don’t know where you’re going to be mounting your SSD to I don’t know if it’s going to be above a power supply shroud like this one if it’s going to be behind the motherboard tray maybe in a drive cage somewhere at the front you just you just don’t know with SSDs these days they’re just so darn small they can fit pretty much anywhere so case manufacturers have come up with so many clever options for mounting them in different places but consult once again your case manual find out where you should place your SSD often times they give you more than one choice as to where you want to mount it I would I would mount it in the best place that would be my recommendation and there are four threads at the bottom of every SSD there’s also threads on either side of the SSD so depending on the case maker that will determine where you’re screwing things in in this case obviously we’re doing it from the bottom I like it better on bottom personally oh by the way I took the sticker off the SSD already because it was hideous oh you know what this is an important lesson before you mount your SSD you might want to think about plugging it in first with your SATA and data cables if it makes sense again use it as a case-by-case sort of suggestion but in this particular situation it does make sense to connect the cables first before mounting it down because the port is hard to get to once the drive is mounted flat against the chassis so I’ve got one cable for you here there’s the data and now we give it a lot when I say power that you’re supposed to come out when I say power ruined it so let’s go ahead and mount this just the same as we did with our hard drive you might need to bend the cables a bit you need to flex them a bit just to just to get them to play nicely sometimes my forearm Oh working that out yeah I’ve been I’ve been screwing a lot lately I don’t even mean that in like a dirty way I’ve been using the screwdrivers very frequently let’s see while we mount the hew plus over here you’re not always I should have mounted the hew plus here because a little bit bigger I want a big fat thing in the middle I’m going to swap it I’m swapping it I don’t care so the hue plus is also two and a half inch form factor although it’s kind of a fatty fatty form factor because it’s like thirty times as thick as this thing down down them to the powder blush route done screaming screaming sound scary so this is the hue plus this is the the brain if you will it controls all those various effects and colors ladi Dadi blah and this particular kit comes included with some strips that you can attach to the brain LED strips that is voila so I realize that this part of the bill that doesn’t apply to most of you because most of you aren’t building with a hue plus however you can check out my video on view plus if you want more info on it for now I’m just going to go ahead and take care of this but we’re going to skip it for the purpose of this video and move on to the next part alright guys now we’re plugging in our meeting connectors they’re not really called meaty connectors so just the bigger plugs certainly much bigger than the front panel connectors or the fan headers so starting with the the 24 pin ATX is our supplemental motherboard power connector and it’s it’s the big one it’s the big fat chunky one it’s hard to miss 24 pins if you want to count them just to be sure and you’ll notice that there’s a clip on one side and no clip on the other alright remember that clip because there will be a little edge sticking out a little latch on one side of the connector so the clip will go on that side so yes these are keyed it will only go in that one way so my hands are in the way boy boom alright plugged in next up we’ve got our 8 pin CPU connector and this looks like two cables but it’s actually just one and it splits off into two the part the the end that splits off into two is the part you want to plug into your motherboard sometimes when it’s split you’ll actually have a little mechanism to lock the two halves into place so they stay together like so and then the header on the motherboard that you plug this into is typically located in the top left corner right there so you just got a feel around for it this one this port here can be a pain especially if you don’t have much room and hopefully I remember to put an annotation when I was talking about installing water cooling radiators that sometimes it’s best to install your power supply first and then your motherboard and then plug in this gosh-darn cable before you install your radiator sometimes the radiator if you’re mounting at the top of the case can easily block your 8 pin cable that’s good though there’s a cutout at the top of the case fortunately Thank You NZXT for that just route it right through well there’s there’s our LED strip falling down and then BAM next up we’ve got our PCIe extensions for our graphics card but we don’t have a graphics card installed yet so we should do that first alright and moving on to our last component for today which is the graphics card where we made it very exciting stuff and this is a really straightforward installation the first thing you want to do is consult your motherboard manual and find out which of these PCIe by 16 slots you should be populating typically it’s the top slot but you want to check the manual just to be safe and what you want to do first is lower the latch that’s at the end of the slot you wish to populate and then once you do that actually kind of opens it up for access and then you need to remove some expansion slots and in the number of expansion slots you need to remove depends on how wide your card slot width is so this is a 2 slot card you can see it’s it’s got 2 rows to these little rows here you can look up the specs the official specs on the manufacturers website just to be safe so you’re going to remove since we have a 2 slot card here we need to remove 2 expansion slots the first one being the one that’s just adjacent to the the slot itself and then since we’re going to need room below that we have to remove the the expansion slot beneath that first one so very simple process here you’re going to want to undo the thumb screws in the s340 elite here there’s actually a like a second panel or there’s I could be a big panel that you have to remove first in order to access the thumb screws so I’m going to go ahead and do that first most cases don’t have this so that’s one less little step you have to worry about all right so that panel is gone and then you just remove the two thumb screws that you need to access through their expansion slots there haha look at that alright beautiful so now we have room for the video card we’re going to go ahead and just hold it gently and you want to just sort of line it up with the with the slot and you’ll see that there’s actually a notch let’s see if there’s a notch in the video card connector and there’s that should line up with a notch in the motherboard slot and very much like your memory you’ll hear a nice click very satisfying and noticeable click and then you just go ahead and screw the thumb screws back in you want to make sure that they’re fairly tight you don’t want to over tighten but make them snug now this plate back on and finally you want to connect your PCIe connector very very similar and how we connected our eight pin EPS CPU connector and our 24 pin it is keyed there’s a clip on one side and also a latch on one side of the connector of the the video card itself you want to line those up and if you’re rocking a similar plug like this where it’s a 6 + 2 design then you want to make sure that those are sort of connected there’s there’s a little bit of a ledge at the bottom at the base of the the plug itself and you want to make sure that that is flush before you plug it in if you do it all correctly it’ll go in like so and then then you want to route this obviously through the best possible grommet you could route it through this right here this is the sort of sidebar at least for the s340 or it could go down below into the basement but I kind of like it behind just makes it a little bit more discreet all a matter of preference on how you like the look okay and then obviously you always want to make sure that all the plastic wrap that comes on your fresh products is removed before operation you don’t want any of this stuff getting too hot these computer parts can get really thirsty they want melted plastic in your ribs alright I think good I think we’re good I think on that note we just got to take care of some cable management which is on the back side and we will be completely done with my cousin’s PC and hopefully you’ll be done with your soup so where do you even begin with something like this this is pretty intimidating if it’s your first time or you’re not too familiar with how to do this but it really is quite straightforward and honestly guys I’ve done this is sort of an old video but I have a in depth video on cable management so you can go check that out for even more detail than I’m going to give here this is going to be more high-level but essentially you have to see at first what you have to work with in your case so this one in particular has a huge basement there’s just like this huge enclosure that goes over the power supply and the drive cage and you can just stash a bunch of cables down here and it wouldn’t be visible on the other side whatsoever which is your beauty side you want that side to look nice this side more or less it doesn’t matter as much it’s kind of a personal preference thing but for me since I have this nice basement to work with I am going to be taking advantage of that and stuff on a lot of cables in there being a little bit lazy but hey if it’s if it’s there for a reason I’m going to use it now for those of you who don’t have a nice big basement to stash a bunch of cables in you probably just have to do it the old-school way and sort of a tie down get the group together cables all right you have to find out what makes sense when you bunch them up all right which which cables can be bunched together and using zip ties in tandem with the tie-down points that are around your motherboard tray should you have them is always a good idea that keeps the cables really flat and up close against the motherboard tray so that you can fit your side panel on once you’re all done the other thing that this case has that not many do are these little cable clasp this is not actually very common on most cases these days but it is it is very handy I’m going to be using these as well to aid in my my cable quest obviously want to make sure to connect your extensions all the extensions that you’ve used to their appropriate cables coming from the power supply otherwise your components won’t work so fortunately thanks to NZXT is brilliant cable clasps here I don’t really need to use many zip ties at all but I will use it for our eight pin CPU connector here since sort of off in right field once you’re done with your zip tie you can go ahead and snip it off with your wire cutters or scissors whichever one and we didn’t even have to use any velcro straps because the cable management in this case is super boss but there you guys have it there’s cable management’s pretty much done again like 90 percent of this was just shoving stuff into the end of the basement but but hey it works and it’s not too difficult to to redo or rewire things or service it in there if we absolutely need to but hey holy crap our build is done that’s a horrible angle let me go ahead and change things up for you so you can see what it looks like all powered on alright guys so I discovered the audio clip for this outro was actually corrupted after I sent the rig home with my cousin so I got to do this lame voiceover while you watch me turn the system on for the first time but technical catastrophes aside the build was a success the rig posted just fine and seems to be in healthy working condition so hopefully those of you building at home find yourselves in the same boat and you’re now ready for Windows installation or whatever operating system you choose to go with I’m sorry if this video didn’t have the same amount of polish as some of my other content because it was just really long and kind of difficult to edit but I hope it helped you along with your own build and leaves you with a new sense of confidence and appreciation when assembling a PC so if you enjoyed the video don’t forget to toss me a like on it before you go and feel free to subscribe to the channel for more tech stuff on the way have a good one guys thanks so much for watching and I’ll see you all in the next one