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what’s going on everybody I’m Johnny
Brook welcome back to their craft and
worship video and welcome to my laundry
room so in this video I’m gonna show you
how to pulled up the crappy a vinyl
floor that was in here and replace it
with this brand new tile flooring from
Lowe’s who is the sponsor of this week’s
video and this was my first time ever
doing tile so originally this video was
gonna be part of my laundry room
makeover but I decided to split them up
because there’s just so much information
I think especially for people who are
new to tile I did a ton of research I
still made plenty of mistakes and I
really tried to tailor the information
in this video for people who are new to
tile work so hopefully it’s helpful
hopefully you enjoyed the video and
let’s go and get started with a project
our laundry room was one of the spaces
that was the most undated when we moved
into our new house it had crappy looking
vinyl flooring wire shelving poor
lighting and even the carpet directly
outside of the laundry room didn’t match
the rest of the carpet in the hallway
all that to say my wife and I definitely
wanted to make some changes to this
laundry room area so the first step in
this project as with any other room
makeover was to get everything out of
the room I picked out a new washer and
dryer from Lowe’s and when the new units
were delivered
I had the delivery guys leave the new
units in the hallway outside of the
laundry room so that I could work on the
floor next i vacuumed up all of the lint
and other crap off of the flooring and
then I could get started removing it and
I thought this would be a super easy
task but boy was I wrong – first I
removed the cord around by scouring the
caulk between the cord around and
baseboard and then prying it off with a
pry bar and I was planning to replace
this anyway so I wasn’t particularly
careful here so just the tip after
removing anything with nails in it like
this cord around oh I make sure to
flatten all of the nails so I don’t
inadvertently stab myself later in the
project or when I’m throwing all this
stuff away later and as you can see the
vinyl flooring actually started to peel
back as I was removing part of the cord
around so I thought I was in the clear
but then I saw more vinyl flooring
underneath it and we’ll get to that in a
second anyway with the trim removed I
went to remove the transition between
the vinyl and carpet and quickly
realized that this transition strip was
permanently attached to the car
well as I mentioned this section of
carpet was mismatched anyway so I
decided to just go ahead and rip it out
and this hallway will be getting
hardwood flooring at some point so that
wasn’t a huge deal I cut the ends of
this section of carpet pulling him back
from the tack strip and then rolled it
up and removed it and I repeated the
process for the carpet pad and then I
could remove the tack strips and the key
when removing tack strips is to pry up
on the nails holding them down so the
tack strips don’t break into a bunch of
pieces this way you can remove the
strips all in one piece and it goes much
quicker with the carpet out of the way I
could finally go about removing the
flooring from the laundry room and
unfortunately as I mentioned there was
another layer of flooring beneath that
top layer and it looks like the previous
owner had damaged the floor and just
decided to cover it up rather than try
and fix it no worries I figured removing
the bottom layer of flooring would be
easy enough but that was not really the
case so for some reason this vinyl
flooring had been adhered to an eighth
inch layer plywood and that was attached
to the subfloor with hundreds of narrow
crown staples I still don’t understand
why they didn’t attach the flooring
directly to the subfloor but removing
the plywood and vinyl itself was pretty
straightforward once I got a larger pry
bar removing the staples on the other
hand was a royal pain and I know there
are scrapers out there that might have
been able to remove some of these but
these staples were not your typical
carpet pad staples these were over an
inch long narrow crown staples like
cabinet shops used for drawer box
assembly the best tool I found for
removing these things was a pair of
diagonal pliers and they were able to
grip onto the heads of the staples and
then I could just use leverage to pry
the staples out if I tried to just brute
force the staples with vice grips I
ended up working to a heck of a lot
harder I also might have been able to
found the staples flush with a hammer
but I knew I was gonna have to sand down
some high spots and I really didn’t want
to be burning through sanding belts and
sending sparks flying all over the place
all right ready
anyway after getting all of those
staples removed I wanted to have a
little bit of fun so I decided to try
cleaning out our dryer vent using a
method I’d seen online an electric leaf
blower and this worked surprisingly well
after cleaning out the dryer vent I
could check the subfloor for any high
spots and as I expected there was a
pretty decent hump right at the front of
the room I marked the high spots and
then went at them with a belt sander and
getting your subfloor flat is especially
important with large format tiles like
the ones I used since an uneven subfloor
will tend to cause leakage or unevenness
between the edges of the tiles once the
subfloor was reasonably flat I could
move on to the actual tile work and
first I needed to prep the subfloor for
tile and you don’t want to lay tile
directly on an OSP sub floor as the OSB
will expand and contract at a different
rate than the tile and you’ll end up
with cracking to deal with this you need
to cover the subfloor with either cement
board or use an uncoupling membrane
which is what I went with this orange
plastic sheeting called Detra is made by
Schluter and is available in these
smaller roles that are great for a
smaller space like this one and the
purpose of this product is to uncouple
your tile from the subfloor which allows
the subfloor whether that’s concrete or
wood to expand and contract while
allowing the tile to stay put which
reduces cracking any way to install this
Schluter ditra I first needed to cut a
few sections to size to fit in the space
and since this stuff is plastic it cuts
easily with a utility knife or scissors
once I have the pieces fit I can go
ahead and start dry fitting the tile and
for this project I went with this really
nice-looking 12 by 24 inch large-format
tile from the Mohawk forever style line
from Lowe’s and this tile is waterproof
stain proof and scratch resistant so
it’s great for high-traffic areas and
Mohawk uses a proprietary where yard
glaze to give it this added durability
it also comes in a bunch of different
styles that you can mix and match but
this cream arbol pattern
was my favorite and looks pretty awesome
in my opinion so the first step in dry
fitting the tile was to figure out how
much I was gonna need to rip off the
first row of tile and as it turned out
these tiles fit almost perfectly in this
face padded the tiles with a 3/16 inch
spacer which is the gap I was leaving
for the grout between each of them as
well as between the first tile on the
wall and luckily I only needed to remove
about 7/8 of an inch from the first row
to have the tile in where I wanted it
next I removed the Detra temporarily so
that I can mark out the center point of
the room as well as the offset I was
going with and on a larger room you
would mark these signs with a chalk line
and also install your tile from the
center of the room but honestly on a
room this small it was easier to just
mark my lines with permanent marker and
install them starting in the back of the
room also on large format tile like this
you don’t want an offset greater than
33% otherwise you’ll end up with more
lipid and that means your typical brick
pattern with a 50% offset will not
really work with large format tile I
went with a 6-inch offset which worked
out to about 25% and I think this looks
great and also meant I ended up with
very little tile waste with my offset
laid out I could start marking tiles to
be cut and if you wash my laminate and
vinyl flooring install videos this is
essentially the same process to mark
where to cut I would flip the tiles
around 180 degrees place a set of
spacers between the wall and the tile
and then use another spacer at the end I
would be cutting to know where to mark
my line and this would just ensure that
I’d have the correct gap on both sides
of the tile once it was cut I marked the
tiles at each into this first row and
then headed downstairs to make my cuts
and I used a tile saw here but honestly
a manual snack cutter would have worked
fine for about 90% of the cuts on this
project it would have also meant that I
could have made these cuts inside rather
than having to bring the tile downstairs
through a gauntlet of three different
baby gates
anyway I first cut the two tiles on the
ins two lengths and then I ripped all
four of the tiles in this first row to
width after making my cuts I could go
back and fit the tiles and somehow I
miss marked one of the tile so I had to
trim off a little sliver and then I
could finally dry fit that first row
with the first row in I could just
continue repeating the same process on
the next two rows adding spacers marking
for my cut making my cuts and then dry
fitting the tiles when I got to the last
row I needed to undercut the door jamb
and trim before I could get the tile fit
to do this I took a scrap piece of Detra
and a tile and used that as a guide for
my oscillating tool and in retrospect I
should have added more space here to
account for the thin set as I ran into
some issues with this gap being too
tight later on and I think a second
layer of vitro would have done the trick
here once the door jamb was undercut I
marked where I needed to notch out the
tile making sure the cut edges would end
up under the jamb and trim and then made
the cut with the tile saw
and these notch cuts are really where
the tile saw came in handy and if you
don’t own a tile saw you could also just
rent one for a project like this
finally with the last two tiles dry fit
all of my cuts were done and the floor
was looking really good
the last thing to cut before the actual
tile install was this transition strip
which is called a Schluter strip and
this gives the tile a nice finished edge
and since it’s aluminum cuts really
easily with a standard Microsoft before
removing all the tiles I labeled them
with some painters tape and permanent
marker so that I could easily put them
back in the right spot when it came time
to install the tile
I also vacuumed the subfloor again just
to make sure nothing was going to
interfere with the tile with that I can
move on to actually laying the tile
which was something I was honestly
pretty nervous about to help me get the
thinset consistency right I decided to
go with this thin set mortar system from
Mapai which I picked up at Lowe’s and it
clearly outlines the liquid to powder
ratio so in this case I was using this
polymer additive as my liquid rather
than water as it helps to thins that
bond to the subfloor better so I used
the entire two gallon container and then
I used this uncoupling membrane mortar
which again called for the entire bag to
be used and this made the mixing mask
really easy but also meant I had a very
full bucket and that first stir with the
battle made a bit of a mess
anyway I mixed this inset for a few
minutes making sure everything was
nicely incorporated and then let the
thinset sit for about five minutes and
this rest period gives the thinset time
to absorb the moisture and smooth out
and this is called slaking and is
extremely important so after slaking for
five minutes I mixed the thinset again
and then it was ready to use that was of
course after bringing this sixty pound
bucket of thin-set upstairs before
applying the thinset I wiped down my sub
floor with a damp sponge and this both
cleans any remaining dust off of the
subfloor but also wets it slightly just
to ensure the subfloor doesn’t suck up
too much moisture out of the thinset and
you might be thinking but what about the
uncoupling membrane
I thought we couldn’t attach the tile
directly to the subfloor and that is
correct this first layer of thin-set is
to adhere the membrane itself to the
subfloor not the tile and as you can see
as I laid the thin set I really tried to
work it into the subfloor to make sure I
ended up with a good bond after working
in the thin set I added a slightly
thicker layer and then used the knotch
side of my trowel to comb the thin set
and the Schluter system requires one of
a few specific notch patterns so just
make sure to follow the directions there
looking back at this I probably needed a
slightly thicker layer of thin-set but
again this was my first time ever laying
down mortar with the tin set in place I
could add the first piece of the
I laid it in place and then worked the
membrane into the thin set with a rubber
grout float this membrane has a fleece
backing that bonds with the thin set and
it’s extremely important that it’s
worked into the sin set well after going
over the membrane with my grout float I
had peeled back an edge to see how even
the coverage was and I could see that I
had some bare spots around the edges
especially so I went back and added more
thin set and then just repeated that
same process and you can see that the
front edge was peeling back when I
didn’t have enough thin set but stayed
flat once I added more after finishing
the first section I repeated the same
process for the other section which went
a little bit smoother since I was
getting more comfortable with the trowel
once the second section was in place I
removed any excess thinset and then I
could start laying the tile and this was
essentially more of the same process
except that I needed to use a different
trowel with a bigger knotch pattern
since I was using large format tiles and
the notches in the thin set allowed the
air to escape from beneath the tiles and
these larger notches give that air more
room to escape with the larger tiles
also the notches should be running
perpendicular to the longest edge of the
tile again to allow that air to escape
you don’t want to have your notches
running in different directions and
especially not in a swirling pattern as
air will get trapped the tile won’t bond
properly and you’ll end up with weak
tiles one other thing I needed to do
here was fill in that waffle pattern on
the membrane to make sure there was
enough thin set so the tiles bonded well
when spreading the thin set I would only
work in sections that I could get tile
on to within about 15 minutes as I
didn’t want the thinset setting up
before I could get the tile set in place
setting the tile was easy I just put the
tile in place wiggled the tile
side-to-side which collapses those
and really bonds that tile with the
thinset and then I added spacers around
the tile to keep it from moving around
when I added the next tile one other
thing I probably should have done was
what’s called back buttering where you
spread a thin layer of thin-set on the
back of the tile before placing it and
this is especially important on large
format tiles so that you get even
coverage and it’s something I honestly
just completely forgot to do so I just
kept working my way down the line adding
more tiles and spacers until I got to
the last row which is where I ran into a
little bit of trouble so as I mentioned
earlier I didn’t quite understand trim
enough and this made sliding the tiles
into place under the trim extremely
difficult and the left side went in okay
but the right side just wouldn’t go all
the way in without some assistance and I
had the bright idea to use a hammer
using some of the D tres padding and
surprise surprise I needed I’m cracking
the tile
so after having a mild panic attack I
had to recut the tile on the fly while
the thinset was setting up and this made
for a pretty stressful moment luckily I
was able to get the tile cut quickly and
actually got it in place with just a
little bit of persuasion and then I
could place that last tile and before I
did that I also needed to add that
transition strip which I should have
done before laying the last row of tile
and the strip goes between the tile and
the membrane and is held in place by the
thinset once the strip was in place I
could lay the last tile also refreshing
that thin set and you can see that there
was a little bit of lipid between that
tile below the trim and the center tile
and this was again because the trim was
pushing down on the tile causing it to
lift slightly and I didn’t feel like
they were as much I could do at this
point and so I just left it alone
after setting that last tile and
breathing a sigh of relief I cleaned up
any excess thinset from the subfloor
between the tiles and on the baseboards
and then I let it set up for about 24
hours the next day I removed all the
spacers and painters tape as well as any
thin set that I might have missed and I
found that the scouring pad on a kitchen
sponge did a really great job here as
well as a putty knife for any bits
between the tiles the next step in the
tile process was grouting which really
gives the tile a finished look I went
with this pre-mixed grout another Mathai
product from Lowe’s and the nice thing
is that it doesn’t need to be sealed
afterwards since it already has a sealer
mixed in adding the grout was a pretty
simple process first I wiped down a
section with a damp sponge to make sure
no other debris was on the surface of
the tile and then I started working the
grout into the seams between the tiles
and you really want to work the grout in
to make sure the joints are completely
filled with grout otherwise it might end
up settling as it dries and leaving you
with voids after working the grout into
the joints I scraped across the tile at
a 45 degree angle from the grout lines
to remove the excess grout
after scraping off the excess I gave the
grout five to ten minutes to set up
before cleaning the rest off with a
sponge and I actually grouted about 3/4
of the entire floor before going back
with a sponge and I think this ended up
being a little bit too long as the grout
was kind of difficult to remove with the
sponge in retrospect I probably would
have only done about half the floor at a
time once again when removing the grout
with the sponge I wiped across the face
of the tile at a 45-degree angle to the
grout lines and I didn’t really need to
use a ton of pressure here also my
sponge was damp but not dripping wet and
if you add too much water it’ll have the
tendency to lift the color from the
grout I just continued working my way
around the floor removing the excess
grout and also added the grout to the
last section as well as in the gap the
transition strip has built in and then I
could let the grout set up for another
24 hours as I mentioned I think I’ve let
the grout set up for a little bit too
long before wiping it off so I was left
with some bits of excess grout on the
surface of the tiles along with a little
bit of haze and I think this is pretty
typical to remove the haze I used this
tile cleaner and I poured it on and
spread it around with a sponge let it
sit for a few minutes and then came back
and scrubbed any problem areas with the
scouring pad on the sponge after
scrubbing I went over the entire floor
with my grout sponge to remove any
excess cleaner and then dried off the
floor with a towel alright hopefully you
guys enjoyed this one I am pretty happy
with the way this floor came together
it’s not perfect by any means but I
think it looks really great still and
honestly most of its gonna be covered up
by those laundry machines again
hopefully you guys enjoyed this one if
you aren’t already go ahead and get
subscribed I put out new project videos
like this pretty much every week I’ll be
putting out the second part of this
laundry room makeover video later this
week probably on Sunday so stay tuned
for that also ring that little
notification bell so don’t miss my
future videos I’ll have links to all the
tools and materials I use down the video
description below including this
beautiful Mohawk forever style tile from
Lowe’s and last I want to say a big
shout-out to my youtube members if you
guys want to support me you can go check
that out as well alright thanks for
watching everybody and until next week
happy building